Chinese Cuisine - Alcholic Beverages

Many Chinese alcoholic drinks are quite distinctive from those of other countries. An important component of Chinese cuisine and culture, the use of alcohol can be traced back to the dawn of the nation's history. Over the centuries many different kinds of alcoholic drinks have been developed and brewing methods as well as distillation has become more sophisticated. The way of consuming these desirable products has become a vital part of custom and culture.

Liquor

Chinese liquor, which is one of the six world-famous varieties of spirits (the other five being brandy, whisky, rum, vodka, and gin), has a more complicated production method and can be made from various staples - broomcorn, corn, rice, and wheat. Opinions regarding the origin of this liquor are divided but in the main there are four possibilities varying from the Eastern Han Dynasty (25 - 220), Tang Dynasty (618 - 907), Song Dynasty (960 - 1297) to the Yuan Dynasty (1271 - 1368), but most people tend to agree that it actually dates from the Song Dynasty. Based on this long tradition, today's distillers create a spirit that is crystal clear, aromatic, and tasty. The most famous brand is Maotai and this holds the title of the 'National Liquor'. It is said that an empty bottle that was once filled with Maotai will emanate its fragrance after a few of days. There are other excellent brands also such as Wuliangye and Luzhou Tequ. These were both award winners at the Panama International Exposition. To facilitate its slow maturing process, the spirit is stored for 4 - 5 years, over which time the full fragrance and flavor develops, thus ensuring that it is a most enjoyable beverage to offer honored guests.

Yellow Wine

As one of the world's ancient wines, Yellow wine, is unique and traditional in China. With a history going back some 5,000 years, it is renowned for its yellow color and lustre. Made from rice and sticky rice, the alcohol content is usually 10 - 15 per cent. After the fermentation process, the wine has a balmy fragrance and is sweet tasting with no sharpness. The wine has a wide appeal and is often used for culinary purposes as well as a beverage. The most popular brands of yellow wine are made in Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province and in Shandong, while Hongqu yellow wine is made in Fujian.

Fruit Wine

Fruit wine is mainly made from grapes, pears, oranges, litchis, sugarcane, hawthorn berries and waxberries and all are quite palatable. Fruit wines possibly have the longest history and there is even a legend that apes brewed wines based on the natural fermentation of fruits; while the man-made wines appeared later. Wine was probably brought into China from the western region in the Han Dynasty (206 BC - 220) and was popular in the Tang Dynasty. Now the fruit wine production is quite widely produced, with grape wine being the most prominent.

Integrated Alcoholic Beverage

These drinks are created from wine and spirits to which the zest or fragrances from fruits, herbs or flowers has been added.. More exotic or medicinal concoctions can contain other plant or even animal derivatives. These blends include wines and medicinal beverages with a very wide range of aromas, flavors and benefits in which the various levels of alcohol and sugar content help to produce styles that are so unique to China. The craft of medical practitioners from ancient times has been well documented and there are many books detailing the art and methods of producing these health products. Alternative medicine is a vital part of tonic day-to-day Chinese life and medicines such as tiger-bone liquor, wolfberry wine, safflower wine, ginseng-antler wine, etc. are still produced and contribute to the extensive repertoire of treatments available.

Beer

Unlike spirits and many wines, beer has much lower alcohol content and is most commonly made from barley and hops. Although beer was not produced in China until the early 20th century, the historical records show that as far back as 3,200 years ago a light, sweet wine named 'li' was made using malted barley. It took time for beer to become widely accepted by the Chinese people but in modern China there is a thriving brewing industry and today there are many brands of quality beers which have become well-known and appreciated by beer drinkers both at home and abroad.

The symbolic serving and drinking of wine on various occasions and in different places can convey many meanings. It can express either joy or sorrow. In China, there is a saying that 'a thousand cups of wine is not too much when bosom friends meet together', which indicates the happiness between two confidants.There are frequent references to wine in well-known legends. Nearly all important occasions are celebrated with alcohol. The Spring Festival, which is a favorite time for family reunions, is probably one of the most significant when rejoicing is expressed by social drinking. During the Double Ninth Festival, people drink chrysanthemum wine to ward off evil and to wish their elders good health and longevity. Of course, no wedding ceremony is complete unless the happy couple symbolizes their love for each other by linking their arms to drink to their future happiness ( jiaobeijiu ), after which they offer a dutiful toast to their parents to thank them for the care they have given to them as children. Similarly, birthday celebrations and the ceremony to mark the 100th day following the birth of a baby will be solemnized with a toast of wine or spirits. In South China, when a baby girl is born, her parents will brew alcohol for her, bury it underground and keep it until she marries. Then they take the jar up and paint auspicious pictures upon it to give greetings.

Each ethnic group has some form of alcoholic drink with which to celebrate special festivals. For example, around the Spring Festival, Korean people drink their 'suijiu' to which rice, root of the balloon flower, cinnamon , red chili and so on is added, to ward off demons.

When drinking wine or spirits at table, both the host and the guests are expected to observe certain rules of etiquette and behavior.

The glass should be full of wine, else the guest will think they are lacking due respect. The elders and superior person or persons present should always be served first. A toast represents esteem, while refusing to participate in a toast shows the great irreverence and a lack of politeness. If a guest is genuinely unable to take a drink then he has to find another to do it for him in order to save face. When making a toast, everyone is required to stand and lightly touch each others' cup, ensuring that the junior's cup is held lower than that of their superior. The cup should be emptied and inverted to show that no wine remains. Drinking with a single draught symbolizes boldness and an uninhibited character. Those who cannot manage to do so should explain in advance in order to receive a kindly understanding of their situation and thus ensure that no one is offended.

As an inseparable part of alcohol culture, the practice of giving a toast has been a ritual since ancient times. Entertainment of various kinds has been offered to people who are taking a drink in order to add to their enjoyment. Performances that may include song, dance, acrobatics, etc. as well as games like 'Jiuling' (in Chinese) are all widely popular. This is highly representative of Chinese hospitality. Here we talk about Jiuling in particular, for it is unique to China.

Jiuling has a long history dating back to the Western Zhou Dynasty (11th century BC - 771 BC). Originally it was introduced to regulate people's drinking habits and so ensure that they should observe rules of etiquette while not drinking to excess. It was during the Warring States Period (476 BC - 221 BC), that Jiuling evolved to include ways in which a toast could be made. This process thrived more and more until the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties along with the development of wine production. The Jiuling became quite fashionable and even artistic in its form thus meeting the elegance of intellectuals and the practices of the common people.

The most popular forms are as follows:

Common Jiuling: These games do not require a great deal of expertise and are thus easy to learn and play. Dice are rolled and contestants have to guess number of spots. Those who make an incorrect guess pay a penalty by taking a cup of drink.

The "Gong Show" is another popular pastime. A person beats a drum or gong behind the scenes, the other people sitting around the table will quickly pass a flower from one to another. When the drummer stops, whoever has the flower will drink and even give a simple performance according to the rules.

"Finger guessing" is interesting. Two people stretch out fingers at the same time while shouting out a number from 2 to 20. If one shouts out a number that is equal to the total number of fingers extended, then he will win, while the person shouts a number that is less, will lose the game and has to take a drink as a punishment. To add to the fun of the game, the players do not just give the numbers but will say a relevant phrase such as 'two kind brothers' to represent 2, 'three stars shining' (3), 'making a fortune in four seasons'(4) and so on..
Literary Jiuling: has a more sophisticated style and consequently in ancient China only educated people could enjoy it. They also thought up many ways in which to play, such as asking riddles, connecting idioms, composing couplets or verses, telling stories or jokes, and so on.

Alcohol Wares

Earlier the wine produced in China was not as we know it today. The fermented product had a thick creamy consistency and was eaten, not being suitable for drinking. Thus the vessels used were more or less the same as those used for other food such as bamboo bowls. Archeological finds dating from as early as the Neolithic Period, show that pottery had been brought into use and consequently drinking vessels were produced in a variety of forms from a simple cup to those with handles and elaborate shapes. Usually, the higher the quality of the vessels, the more dignified or important was the owner.

Bronze vessels became the fashion during the Shang Dynasty (16th -11th century BC), and these took on four different forms: there were those that were used for heating their contents, those that would contain a quantity of wine for serving such as jugs or flagons, actual drinking vessels, and those that were used for storage. Apart from the basic designs there were those that were quite elaborate and which were a symbol of social status. Such vessels were produced in the shapes of the tiger, elephant, rhinoceros, ox or sheep, etc. something that demonstrates the high standards of manufacturing skills that had been attained at the time.

Lacquer vessels became popular in the Han Dynasty (206 BC - 220). As it was the custom for people to sit on the floor of their dwellings, the vessels would have been set there for them. This meant that the shapes tended to be low and chunky, often with ear-like handles. Excavation of the Mawangdui Han Tombs, revealed some 90 ear-handled cups that are evidence of the artistic skills employed in their production. From the Jin Dynasty (265 - 420) onwards, people liked to sit on a divan or bed, and this led to the introduction of tall and thin-necked cups.

The design of porcelain vessels produced during the Tang Dynasty (618 - 907) surpassed the earlier vessels and they were much smaller and more delicate. This material continued to be used until the Ming and Qing Dynasty. The bowls and stoups with their blue and white flower patterns were quite an art.

Aesthetic Vessels

Historically, the more unique vessels have been made from special materials such as gold, silver, ivory, jade, cloisonne, and so on. Although they were never in common use, they occupy an important position because of their high artistic value. The following descriptions are of very special wine vessels:

The Luminous Cup: This distinctive cup was made of jade in Mt. Qilianshan which was said to have the function of helping keep the contents wholesome and now it is highly regarded for its aesthetic value.

Backwards-flowing Flagon: This can be seen in the Shaanxi Provincial Museum. The flagon was produced during the Northern Song Dynasty (960 - 1127). It has a round body and what appears to be the lid is like a persimmon pedicel. Its handle bears a phoenix which seems to be raising her head and about to take flight. The spout is carved as a female lion from whose mouth the wine can pour. Under the lioness is her son, - the suckling little lion adds more yet interest to the body. The belly of the flagon is decorated with a peony flower pattern. On the underside of the flagon there is a hole like a plum blossom. It is here that the wine is poured into the vessel and the design is such that the liquid does not run out when it is returned to an upright position.

Nine-dragon Fairness Cup: This is another cup from the Song Dynasty. A dragon is carved on the inside of the cup and there are eight painted dragons on the outside, hence the name 'nine-dragon cup'. Beneath them is a round tray with a hollow pedestal. When the wine is poured in properly, it cannot leak but if a certain limit is exceeded then all the wine will be absorbed into the pedestal.

Dushan Dayuhai: In Beijing's Beihai Park there is a large black jade urn that weighs 3,500 kilograms (7,716 pounds) and that can hold 1,800 kilograms (3,968 pounds). On its exterior there are powerful engravings of living dragons and beasts emerging from waves. It is said that this urn was transported in 1256.by the Yuan Dynasty's first emperor to reward heroes at a great feast.